Archive through September 24, 2003
TV ClubHouse: Archive: 10,001 things for those who are BORED with this years BB to do...(Was 1001) :
Archive through September 24, 2003
Charvie | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 07:38 am     7101- rise and shine 7102-baby is up 7103thank goodness for sesame street 7104-need to go make my coffee 7105-lots of sugar 7106-my fingers aren't working 7107-nearing the end of the bb drama 7108-can't believe it 7109-now what to do with my freetime 7110-catching up on all the new movies I missed and have become old ones 7111-hope I am numbered correctly |
Charvie | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 07:42 am     7112-watching daddy day care 7113--not sure if it will be ok |
Flamingo | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 07:52 am     7114 - don't want to go to work 7115 - why isn't is saturday 7116 - 10 hours to finale 7117 - must go now |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 07:55 am     7118 I got the beds made 7119 Got the laundry started 7120 Time for a break….lol 7121 Don’t have the fixins for chili 7122 Hubby has a car 7123 Daughter has another 7124 Son has the last 7125 I’m trapped 7126 I’m stuck 7127 What will I do 7128 I need some kidney beans 7129 And a couple of cans of tomatoes too 7130 Nearest store is 12 miles 7131 Walking is out of the question 7132 Looks like no chili tonight 7133 Hate it when my heart is set on something 7134 Only to be crushed 7135 Much like this BB season 7136 Oh well 7137 Haven’t had chili since March 7138 Chili is definitely not a warm weather food 7139 I never fix chili in the summer 7140 I have to stop thinking about chili 7141 I’m craving chili 7142 Wonder if I could ride one of the cows to the store 7143 NO!!! Definitely not 7144 “Udderly” ridiculous to think such a thing |
Charvie | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 07:59 am     7145-movie isn't fun 7146-glad to be off today 7147-still too early 7148-coffee is tasting good 7149-need to style my hair 7150-will take 4 hours 7151-have to do it today 7152-need to call the dentist 7153-wonderful thread 7154-wish i had participated earlier 7155-already had to fix those numbers. lol |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:37 am     7156 ----------STAIN REMOVAL SUPPLIES---------- 7157 COMBINATION SOLVENTS (Shout, Spray ‘n Wash) All-purpose stain removers, particularly good on greasy stains. 7158 OIL SOLVENTS (K2r, Afta) Also called dry-cleaning fluid, these remove oily, greasy stains. Safe on nonwashables. Use only on dry fabric, in a well-ventilated area. Air clothes after using. 7159 DIGESTANTS (Biz, Era Plus, Wisk) Also called enzyme cleaners, these detergents contain enzymes that “eat” protein stains, like grass, blood, and egg yolk. Apply directly to damp fabric, or dilute in water, and then soak clothes. Use cold water when treating blood stains. Wool and silk are proteins, so digestants should never be used on these fibers. 7160 ABSORBANTS (cornstarch, talcum powder) Sprinkle on fresh grease stains, wait about ten to fifteen minutes, then scrape off. Then you can treat the stain. 7161 DETERGENT A mild, clear liquic dishwashing detergent is an effective all-purpose cleaner. Apply it straight, wait five minutes, then flush or dab with water. 7162 BLEACHES Remove the color left behind by stains with mild bleaches, like lemon juice; white vinegar (mixed 1:1 with water); 2 or 3 percent hydrogen peroxide; or ammonia (2 parts water to 1 part ammonia; do not use on wool or silk). Use a cotton swab to dab the bleach, or place paper towels under the fabric, and use an eyedropper to flush the area with the proper bleach. Chlorine bleach, diluted with water, is a last resort. 7163 DENATURED ALCOHOL Effective at breaking down some stains and evaporates without leaving a residue. 7164 GENERAL SPIRITS For greasy stains, like tar. Air clothes after using. 7165 GLYCERIN Available at drugstores, it is particularly good for ballpoint ink. 7166 ---------- STAIN CHART ---------- 7166 GREASE (butter, oil, mayonnaise) Washables: Start with a combination solvent. Follow up with mineral spirits or an oil solvent if necessary. Non-Washables: Use an oil solvent, then dab with cool water; dry flat. 7167 PROTEIN (blood, egg, grass) Washables: Soak bloodstains in cold salt water first. Use digestant. If necessary, flush with vinegar or hydrogen peroxide, using an eyedropper, to remove color. Non-Washables: Use dishwashing detergent, dab with cool water, and blot out excess moisture; dry flat. 7168 FRUIT & VEGETABLE (juice, jam) Washables: Start with denatured alcohol. Using an eyedropper, flush with vinegar to remove remaining color, then dishwashing detergent to remove residue. Non-Washables: Same as for washables, using water sparingly. Even if you can't see stain, point out area to dry cleaner, since any sugar that remains can caramelize when dry-cleaned. 7169 LIPSTICK Washables: Use a combination solvent to remove grease. Using an eyedropper, flush with vinegar or a mild bleach to remove remaining color. Non-Washables: Use an oil solvent to remove grease. Dab with vinegar to remove remaining color. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7170 RED WINE Washables: Use denatured alcohol; then, with an eyedropper, flush with vinegar for remaining color. For sturdy fabric, coat area with salt, hold over a bowl or the sink, and pour very hot water through the fabric from above. Non-Washables: Use denatured alcohol. Dab with vinegar to remove remaining color. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7171 WHITE WINE Washables: Flush with water, and wash as you normally would. Non-Washables: Dab with cool water; dry flat. Point out to dry cleaner, even if spot is not visible, since any sugar that remains can caramelize when dry-cleaned. 7172 TEA Washables: Using an eyedropper, flush with lemon juice to remove color, then stronger bleach if necessary. For sugar, flush with water. For milk, follow up with a combination solvent. Non-Washables: Dab with lemon juice to remove color. For sugar, dab with water. For milk, follow up with an oil solvent. 7173 COFFEE Washables: Using an eyedropper, flush with vinegar to remove color. For sugar, flush with water. For milk, follow up with a combination solvent. Non-Washables: Dab with vinegar to remove color. For sugar, flush with water. For milk, follow up with an oil solvent. 7174 WAX OR GUM Washables: Use ice to freeze wax or gum, or place item in freezer; scrape or crack off as much as you can, then use an oil solvent or mineral spirits to remove residue. Non-Washables: Same as for washables. 7175 CHOCOLATE Washables: Start with a combination solvent for grease, then follow up with a digestant for protein, if necessary. Non-Washables: Start with an oil solvent for grease. Dab with vinegar for color if necessary. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7176 SAUCES (tomato, ketchup, barbecue) Washables: Scoop off excess. Use a combination solvent for grease. Then, using an eyedropper, flush with vinegar for color. Non-Washables: Scrape off excess, if necessary. Use an oil solvent for grease, then dab with vinegar for color. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7177 MUSTARD Washables: Flush with ammonia solution, then wash with dishwashing detergent. Non-Washables: try dabbing with vinegar; you may need the dry cleaner. 7178 VINAIGRETTE Washables: Use a combination solvent for grease; then, using an eyedropper, flush with vinegar for color. Non-Washables: Use an oil solvent for grease, then dab with vinegar for color. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7179 SOY SAUCE Washables: Start with water and dishwashing detergent. Using an eyedropper, flush with hydrogen peroxide for remaining color Non-Washables: Use water and dishwashing detergent sparingly, then dab with vinegar for remaining color. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7180 MUD Washables: Shake or scrape off residue. For large areas, presoak in a solution of warm water and laundry detergent. For small areas, use a combination solvent. Follow up with vinegar or peroxide if necessary. Non-Washables: Shake or scrape off residue. Use dishwashing detergent and water sparingly. Dab with vinegar for color. 7081 BALLPOINT INK Washables: Rub glycerin into area; let stand fifteen to twenty minutes, and wash with dishwashing detergent. Or spray with inexpensive hair spray, and flush with water. Non-Washables: Rub glycerin into area, and let stand fifteen to twenty minutes. Use dishwashing detergent and water sparingly. Dab with cool water; dry flat. 7182 FELT-TIP INK Washables: Flush with denatured alcohol using an eyedropper; wash with dishwashing detergent. Non-Washables: Rub glycerin into area; let stand fifteen to twenty minutes, then use alcohol. Dab with cool water; dry flat. |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:40 am     7183 ----------How to Make a Bed ---------- 7184. Begin with a good-quality mattress and box spring. Protect the mattress with a cotton cover; Martha adds a wool pad. 7185. Unless you’re using a fitted sheet, make hospital corners with the bottom sheet, starting at the bed’s head: Drape the sheet evenly over the bed, leaving about 1 foot of fabric hanging beyond the head. Stand beside the bed, toward its center, and pick up a side hem. Pull the hem toward you into a taut crease, then raise the creased section over the mattress so the sheet makes a triangular tent over the bed. With your other hand, smooth the sheet flat along the mattress’s side. Then fold the creased section down over the side, and tuck the sheet snugly under the mattress. Repeat the process at the foot and other side of the bed. 7186. Add the top sheet, and make hospital corners at the bed’s foot. 7187. Leave the sides untucked for easier sleeping. Finish with a blanket, quilt, or down comforter. |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:42 am     7188 Guess who found out Martha Stewart has a step by step guide for everything 7189 Yep, you guessed it 7190 It's me 7191 Hope this isn't against the rules 7192 Hope I'm never as anal as Martha Stewart |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:45 am     7193 ----------Floor Care 101---------- 7194 For any floor, vacuuming is the first step. Do this as often as daily and at least once a week; removing the everyday accumulation of dirt makes mopping and waxing less arduous. Dust-mop for a quick fix when you don’t have time to vacuum. 7195 The next step depends upon the type and finish of the floor. Here are some specific tips to follow. 7196 Wood Floors If floors are waxed, re-apply wax once or twice a year, and buff in between to revive the shine. Waxed wood should not be mopped—a wax seal is not watertight, and liquid could cause damage. Wipe spills with damp paper towels as soon as they hit the floor, and buff the area with a soft cloth. For wood floors with a polyurethane finish, damp-mop with a combination of one quart water and one-quarter cup vinegar. 7197 Vinyl Floors Wax vinyl forty-eight hours after installation and about every six months thereafter. Apply wax sparingly directly on the floor, and spread it into a very thin coat using long, straight strokes with a wax applicator or sponge mop. Open windows, and let dry to a shine. Damp-mopping with warm water brightens a less soiled floor; wet-mopping with vinyl-floor cleaner removes more substantial grime. Remove wax build-up with stripper about once a year. 7198 Marble, Ceramic Tile, and Stone Floors Masonry floors require care similar to that of vinyl, with the addition of an early step: sealing. Apply an all-purpose masonry-floor sealer (available at hardware stores) with a sponge mop or clean rags, following package directions. Once sealed, a stone floor should be waxed about once a year with an acrylic liquid or paste wax. To clean, damp-mop with water and mild soap, such as Ivory Liquid; rinse with clean water. After one or two waxings, repeat the process from the beginning: strip, seal, and rewax. 7199 General Floor Care Tips Give your floors a break. When you move anything, always lift and place; never slide. For heavy objects, slip a square of carpet, pile side down, under the points touching the floor (or try our EZ-Glide Circles). Attach felt or nylon glides to legs, and check the glides occasionally for dirt, which can scratch the floor. 7200 Mop Tips Rag mops are the choice of many people, for good reasons: They’re effective on large areas and on textured surfaces, such as tile and grout—even concrete. Look for cotton-rayon blends; pure cotton takes longer to dry, attracting bacteria. Sponge mops are good for damp-mopping, but invest in a good one; a poor-quality sponge head will quickly break apart. |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:47 am     7201 ----------Dishwashing 101---------- 7202 When it comes to keeping your kitchen clean and maintaining the condition of your tableware, nothing is more important than knowing how to wash your dishes. Cheryl Mendelson, author of “Home Comforts,” shares her techniques for keeping dishes clean and sparkling. 7203 Begin by assembling your equipment: a dish pan, a drying rack, dish cloths or sponges, pot scratchers, brushes, detergent, and rubber gloves. Scrape any extra food off the items you’re washing, then assemble them to one side of the sink in the order that they’ll be washed: Put the glassware and silverware closest to the sink so that they can be washed first; because these pieces need to be shiny, they will benefit most from pure, soapy water. Arrange the rest in the following order: table china, serving dishes, cooking utensils, and broiler pans or similar items. 7204 Fill the dish tub with water as hot as you can stand it (rubber gloves will help your hands withstand hotter water), and add enough detergent to turn the water moderately sudsy. The hotter the water, the more likely the glasses and silver will dry without spots or streaks. Place a few items in the tub—don’t overcrowd them—and wipe them with a circular motion. When you’ve cleaned a few items, rinse them in very hot water, and place them in the dish rack to drain. When the tub’s water cools or becomes dirty or oily, drain it, then refill the sink with fresh hot, soapy water. 7205 Cheryl prefers using washcloths because they’re easy to launder, but if you use a sponge, it will need to be sanitized periodically to prevent germs from collecting inside. Even sponges that claim to be antimicrobial still allow certain bacteria to grow; soak your sponges in a mixture of bleach and hot water to sterilize them. (Some people send their sponges through a cycle in the dishwasher, but this doesn’t sterilize them effectively.) Although antibacterial detergents are now widely available, they can be harsh on the skin. Any dish detergent used with suitably hot water is adequate. 7206 When working on your pots, use nylon mesh pads for nonstick cookware, and steel wool or metal scrubbers on cast iron and stainless steel without a satin finish. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions before washing one of these items. 7207 There are basically two methods for drying, and both require that you put your dishes away as soon as they’re dry to avoid splashes, spills, and germs. The first method is air-drying; when air-drying, be sure to wipe any water spots off with a dry towel. The other method is wiping dishes dry with a towel right away—though kitchen-safety experts say that damp towels are breeding grounds for germs. If the water you use is hot enough, it will evaporate off the dishes almost immediately; if you do use a towel, be sure it is dry and clean before starting. |
Joesmom | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 08:55 am     7208- I'm a lurker, but wanted to add my part to this great 10,001 goal. 7208-Read the hilarious thread about the fake forum.. |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:03 am     7209 OK Mods, I understand now 7210 Thanks for correcting my goof |
Jubale | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:06 am     7211-another lurker wanting to add my 2 cents 7212-read Ali debate thread so I knew to come here |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:07 am     7213 --------Dishwasher Strategy --------- 7214 Most of us give little thought to our dishwashers—we just load the dishes, add the detergent, and turn it on. But a bit of planning goes a long way toward keeping your dishes and utensils in their best shape and getting them as clean as possible. 7215 Most dishwashers have an upper and lower rack, as well as a basket for utensils. Some models have a shallow third rack on top for utensils instead. These are nice, as they keep the utensils from touching each other and allow for even cleaning. If using a model with a basket, you should alternate your silverware pieces, one piece pointing up, the next down, etc., to get them as clean as possible. Never allow stainless steel to touch silver—this will cause an electrolytic reaction that will spot and pit the stainless steel. Since most silver-handled knives have stainless blades, don’t wash them in the dishwasher. 7216 On the bottom rack, load plates, staggering large plates with small ones, and put large cookware and pots and pans along the sides. Fill the top rack with mugs and cups, lined up between the rows of prongs—not over the prongs where they might chip. Bowls go down the center of the top rack. 7217 Before loading your dishes, you should take a look at where the water is coming from—whether there are two water distributors or only one. With this knowledge, you can best arrange your dishes to get them as clean as possible. Also, remember to adjust the washing cycle depending on what you put in the dishwasher—a heavy-duty cycle for pots and pans, a gentle cycle with cooler water for fine china and crystal. 7218 Items that should not go in the dishwasher: 7219 -Anything that the manufacturer indicates is not dishwasher safe 7220-Aluminum takeout or cooking containers 7221-Gold-plated items 7222-Pewter, brass, or bronze—hot water can cause pitting or discoloration 7223-Any wood or wooden-handled items—they will lose their finish and the handles will loosen 7224-Cast-iron or tin pots or pans—they will lose their seasoning 7225-Teflon or nonstick pots and pans 7226-Metal utensils—whisks, spatulas, etc. 7227-Painted dishes, including old Pyrex—their finish will fade over time 7228-Cake pans—they will lose the patina that keeps the cake from sticking 7229-Rubber scrapers 7230-Kitchen knives—the joinery will loosen over time 7231-Wooden cutting boards 7232-Dishes made prior to 1960—they were not made to withstand the heat of the dishwasher 7233 Items that can go in the dishwasher: 7234-Plastic cutting boards—the high heat helps to sanitize them 7235-Mixing bowls—load them upside down 7236-Fine strainers and graters—rinse first to dislodge food particles 7237-Anything stainless steel 7238 Items that are dishwasher safe but wear better if hand-washed: 7239-Crystal 7240-China with gold leaf or painted patterns—it will eventually fade or discolor 7241-Milk glass—it will yellow with repeated washings |
Jubale | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:09 am     7240-another lurker wanting to add my 2 cents 7241-read Ali debate thread so I knew to come here .
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Jubale | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:10 am     7242-give up trying to get in line here |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:12 am     7243 Sorry Jubale |
Llkoolaid | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:15 am     7244: words that ryhme with cat 7245: HAT 7246: fat 7247: mat 7248: vat 7249: bat 7250: gnat 7251: sat |
Jubale | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:15 am     7252-Say Hi to Monalisahi 7253-Thank her for the acknowledgement 7254-encourage Mona to keep up the good work 7255-tell Mona she should start her own Monalisa Living |
Llkoolaid | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:17 am     7256: Sorry Jubale |
Jubale | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:20 am     7257-Say Hi to Koolaid 7258-Thank him/her for the acknowledgement 7259-encourage Koolaid to keep up the good work 7260-ask Koolaid if they have ever been a rap star |
Joesmom | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:22 am     7261...wonder what happened to 7248-7255... |
Monalisahi | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:23 am     7262 --------Organizing a Linen Closet -------- 7263 Wherever you choose to keep your linens, the organizing principles are the same: Shelves and drawers should be clean and freshly painted or lined (unfinished wood can stain the fabric over time). You can fold linens to fit wide or narrow spaces. If the shelves are adjustable, set them at the various heights indicated below. If the setup in your closet or cupboard is inflexible, use baskets, plastic bins, dividers, or plastic-covered-wire shelving to create customized surfaces and spaces. 7264 Sheets and Towels 7265 A shelf height of about 10 inches is good for sheets. Keep sheets of the same kind (queen fitted, for example) in stacks together, or sort sheets into sets (flat, fitted, and pillowcases) for each bed. Allow about 12 to 16 inches of shelf height for towels; organize them by size or by the bathroom they’ll be used in. 7266 Comforters and Blankets 7267 Bulky comforters, wool blankets, and extra pillows may need 18 inches of shelf space. Stack these linens at the top of the closet, since you probably only reach for them a few times a year. Store blankets and comforters in zippered bags to keep them from getting dusty. A trunk, a chest, or a box that slides under the bed is also a good storage solution. 7268 Table Linens 7269 Sets of napkins should always be kept together; Wrap each set loosely in a sleeve of clear cellophane to keep them organized and easily identifiable. Tablecloths can be folded flat or hung on sturdy good-quality hangers (but not on flimsy wire ones). 7270 Antique Linens 7271 Antique linens should be professionally cleaned and packaged in acid-free tissue paper, which helps keep fabric from yellowing. Depending on their shape and size, they may be stored folded, hung, or rolled on cardboard tubes. 7272 Labels 7273 You should never have to unfold something to find out what it is (and when they’re properly folded, fitted sheets are impossible to distinguish from flat). Take a few minutes to tag shelf edges, using adhesive labels or card holders. 7274 Pest Prevention 7275 Cedar blocks help deter moths when tucked into drawers or placed on shelves where linens are stored. You may also want to use sachets to add a subtle fragrance to linens. 7276 --------How To Fold a Fitted Sheet -------- 7277 There is a foolproof technique for folding a fitted sheet. These instructions are for a right-handed person; just reverse them if you’re left-handed. 7278 1. Stand holding the sheet by the two adjacent corners of one of the shorter edges (see photo, left). With the sheet inside out, place one hand in each of these two corners. 7279 2. Bring your right hand to your left, and fold the corner in your right hand over the one in your left, enveloping it. Next, reach down and pick up the corner that is hanging in front; bring it up, and fold it over the two corners in your left hand; the corner that’s showing will be inside out. 7280 3. Bring the last corner up, and fold it over the others; with its right side showing, it should envelop the other three corners. 7281 4. Lay the folded sheet on a flat surface, and straighten it into the shape shown. 7282 5. Fold the two edges in so all the elastic is hidden. 7283 6. Fold the sheet into a rectangle. 7284 7. Continue folding until the rectangle is the size you want it to be. 7285 Sorry, I'm not posting the pictures 7286 --------HOW TO FOLD A TOWEL-------- 7287 As with sheets, there is a right way to fold a towel so that the edges are hidden and the towel looks fluffy and neat. 7288 1. Fold the towel in thirds lengthwise. This is the way it should be folded to be hung over a towel rod; if there’s a monogram, it will be centered and visible. 7289 2. Fold the towel into a rectangle, as shown. 7290 3. Keep sets of guest towels together, bound with twill tape or ribbon. When visitors arrive, just transfer the bundle from the linen closet to the guest bedroom. |
Joesmom | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:24 am     7291. ok...make that 7251-7254 |
Joesmom | Wednesday, September 24, 2003 - 09:26 am     7292...sorry forgot to number that...so this is actually 72912 |
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